Machingas

Another ever presence are the mostly young men who venture into traffic to sell their wares at car windows. We learned that they are called ‘machingas’ which is the Swahili version of ‘marching guys.’ We were also informed that with them and most of the roadside sellers one must reduce the stated price by half, perhaps even more if one is a Mzungu. On our bus to Mikumi people bought air time in this way, roasted cashews and peanuts, cassava or potato chips, soft drinks, newspapers, baskets and fruit. We also found many sellers with stands on the side of the road, especially nearer to Mikumi, with many different baskets, with an eye to the tourists going to the national park. Also sugar cane and coconuts, of course.

Mikumi National Park

Well, we had two quite amazing game drives – in our own vehicles but with a guide – at Mikumi National Park, one on Friday evening and the other early Saturday morning. On Friday evening we had the surprise of our lives as we came within feet of two pairs of lions. Remarkably, they did not seem too bothered by us. We were all quite enthralled as we watched them from the open windows of our bus. They were definitely the highlight of the Friday evening drive, though we also spotted a leopard languishing in a tree. On Saturday we enjoyed a four hour game drive and saw a large number of animals: two different kinds of small antelope, many giraffe, small herds of elephant, larger herds of buffalo and wildebeest, baboons, and a couple of hippos enjoying a bath. We saw many, many different birds large and small. Mikumi is Tanzania’s fourth largest national park and it was well worth the trip. Many of our participants had never been to a game park so it was especially fun for them.

Traveling to Mikumi

So, on Friday morning after breakfast we left for our overnight in the Mikumi National Park. It was very nice to get out of the hotel and see some of the countryside. Our first stop was Mlimani City again so that people could stock up on money from the ATMs; given time constraints we decided to hold off on shopping until the return. As we travelled we saw commerce all around us, inside Dar and beyond. Lot of fruits and vegetables for sale and for transport to other centers in large baskets or sacks: tomatoes, potatoes, oranges, pineapples, also huge sacks of charcoal, lots of flowers and plants in individual containers lined the road as well. We also saw lots of handmade furniture, doors and other wood products, including plain old firewood. And of course the ever present bars and cafes. And also many Maasai brightly clad in brilliant red and blue and purple shukas.

We took the Morogoro Road out of Dar; it was full of heavily laden trucks and busses. The road was mostly in very good shape; no potholes and shoulders on both sides. We moved into the Coast Region and passed through the town of Kabaha; many other villages and then a large town called Chalinze which is the home town of the current president of Tanzania. At Chalinze we found the junction with the Arusha Road, though we continued on the Morogoro Road. We passed a sisal plantation; before synthetic materials for rope were available, sisal was one of Tanzania’s primary exports for the making of rope. Then we found ourselves surrounded by the Uluguru Mountains, a mountain range, we were told, that extends all the way to Kilimanjaro. The Uluguru meant that we were close to Morogoro, a bustling town where we had a buffet lunch at a local hotel. After lunch Kuno got a cola popsicle from a bus station vendor. Once past Morogoro the road became the Iringa Road which leads past Iringa to Zambia.

We arrived at Mikumi National Park in time for an early evening game drive and by about 7:30 pm found ourselves checking in to the Hotel Genesis in the town of Mikumi (which we did not see). The accommodation and food were fine, if not basic. Power seemed to be supplied by a generator and we realized that it was turned off during the night. It was turned back on again around 6 in the morning as we heard the faint sound of the call to prayer.

Food in Tanzania

We are eating very well here at the Kunduchi Beach Hotel and Resort; indeed that is one reason that we chose this place over others. Lots of fresh fruit in the morning: papaya, mango, pineapple and watermelon; masala tea (my favorite morning drink in East Africa - though this one is not quite strong enough), fresh maandazi (the ubiquitous fried dough otherwise known as vetkoekies in southern Africa) and various hot and cold breakfast foods. For lunch there is a buffet every ay that includes one long table of Tanzanian dishes. So we have had cabbage in peanut sauce, cassava leaves in coconut milk, plantains, ugali (pap) or rice or chapatis, every kind of chicken, fish and beef, as well as salads and more fruit and cakes for dessert. At the workshop we have two tea breaks a day, and then Mave and Kuno usually want something from the snack menu in the evening, after working up an appetite on the beach or in the pool. So on the patio under the cool ocean breeze, we can order samosas, masala chips and more.

This Time for Africa!

One song was particularly popular at the Opening Reception on Monday night and the refrain seemed to be: this time for Africa! A couple of days later we realized that this is the song by Shakira and Freshly Ground that was played at the Opening Ceremony of the World Cup in South Africa - and the official song of the 2010 World Cup. A new continental anthem: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRDgVGHB6eM&feature=player_embedded.

Opening Reception

Monday began our first day of the workshop with introduction of participants and introduction to the material in the morning. We are 18 junior African scholars from around the continent and four US based graduate students as well as the four directors. In the afternoon we had our first excursion - to the Mlimani City mall, to stock up on provisions, and to the University of Dar es Salaam for the Opening Reception. The reception was held at the Vice-Chancellor's house, though he is not around. There was a DJ and lots of dancing. Also drinks and snacks offered around. We have a bus to transport us here and there and get to see lots of the city from the large windows; Dar es Salaam is such a busy and interesting place! There is so much activity at all hours of the day or night. Our bus is even air conditioned so we move in great comfort. The weather is warm and somewhat humid but not nearly as warm as earlier in the year.

Kunduchi Beach Hotel and Resort

We arrived in Dar on Sunday evening around 7:30 pm and were greeted by Happiness and a driver from the Gender Centre who drove us to the hotel. Helena and I had visited here in March and picked this hotel, on the advice of others, from a group of possibilities. Online reviews were not that good but our first 24 hours have been just fine. We had a choice of rooms and they put in an extra bed for us which was very nice. Kuno immediately went out exploring in the dark with Aili's son Max. This morning we launched the workshop and the kids tried out the Water Park. They were not at all impressed by the Water Park - but they were thoroughly taken with the Indian Ocean and the hotel pool. Kuno collected lots of shells and best of all a hermit crab. The ocean water was as clear as could be, as warm as could be and took them out to a sand bar. Kuno has found another place that he does not want to leave.